Mustang,
located in Nepal's northwestern
Himalayas is a land of intense and
diverse vistas, a spectrum of flora
and fauna, and a variety of ethnic
groups. From the lush coniferous
forests in the south to the desert
wildflowers scattered across Mustang's
northernmost plains, this area is
unique. Caught in the rain shadow
of Dhaulagiri Himal (8167m.) to
the west and the Annapurna massif
to the east, most of Mustang's 750
square-miles are trans-Himalayan
desert. This boot-like piece of
land juts north into the Tibetan
plateau. At an elevation of fifteen
thousand feet, the Mustang landscape
reveals spires of ochre Earth and
dramatic rock formations, as well
as sandy flats and grassy plains
surrounded by rolling hills-the
hallmark of the Central Asian plateau.
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| Rangbyung
Cave
In-between the villages of Syangbochan and
Geling, a steep trail leads to Rangbyung
cave, a monument that includes a large choten
(reliquary) and self-emanating statues of
Guru Rinpoche, the Tibetan name of Phadmasambhava,
the 8th-century saint who is
said to have brought Buddhism to Tibet.
According to local beliefs, if any part
of this monument is broken off, it will
spontaneously regenerate.
Gehmi's
Mani wall and Drakmar
 Outside
the village of Ghemi lies a mani(prayer)
wall that is said to be the longest in Nepal.
This over 300 meter stretch of stones inscribed
with prayers and painted with stripes of
charcoal and ivory, cadmium and burnt umber
Earth. This monument is regaled as the intestines
of a local demoness who was subdued by Guru
Rimpoche as he flew from India northwards
towards Tibet, conquering all enemies of
Buddha Dharma along the way. The stunning
red cliffs of Drakmar just northwest of
Ghemi are said to be splattered with this
demoness' blood.
Tsarang
Palace
 This
five story palace, or kar, holds a vast
collection of religious statues and thankas(scroll
paintings), as well as volumes of historical
and religious documents, including a complete
collection of the Buddha's teachings written
in gold. This structure itself is thought
to predate the palace in Lo Monthang.
Monasteries
of Lo Monthang
 Inside
the walled city of Monthang in this land
of Lo lie Champa, Thugchen, and Chodyi gompas.
Champa lha-khang ("god house")
houses an enormous statue of Maitreya, the
future Buddha. The walls are painted with
elaborate mandalas nearly two meters in
diameter. Thugchen gompa's expansive altar
room is reminiscent in size and scope to
some of the largest temples is Tibet, hinting
at the historical importance Lo Monthang
has played in the perpetuation of Tibetan
religious culture. Chodyi gompa is the home
of Tashi Tenzin Rimpoche, the Khenpo, the
monastic spiritual authority of Lo. Chodyi's
compound also includes a newly-established
school for young monks.
Lo
Gekhar
 Poised
on a ridge overlooking the village of Tsarang,
this gompa(monastery) is a cornerstone of
Lo's religious heritage. Guru Rimpoche is
said to have placed sacred texts inside
the monastery for discovery by later religious
teachers. This monastery's history is also
connected to the founding of Samye Gompa
in Tibet: it is said that when the latter
gompa was being built, each night the work
of the previous day was torn down by a demon.
In order to subdue this demon, Guru Rimpoche
directed the monks of Samye to build another
gompa- complete with 108 choten-at Lo Gekhar.
Historical records suggest that LO Gekhar
is one of the oldest gompas in Nepal that
is still active. |
Luri
Gompa
Located east of Monthang above the
villages of Yara and Gara, the gompa
at Luri has been described by travel
writers as a "jewel".
The central chamber of the gompa
is carved out of rock, creating
a domed ceiling on which are painted
a series of Mahasiddhas, the Holy
men of Buddhist myth. The wall paintings
of Luri are exquisite examples of
Newari craftsmanship and classical
Indian-style renderings of religious
figures. Luri also includes a large
choten, marking it as one of the
most sacred sites in Mustang. Half
a dozen of these reliquaries are
said to exist in Mustang, though
only a few of their locations are
known.
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